is what Krakow is to Poland. This is because it stands in its original condition and was not destroyed during the war. Nice of the Nazis to leave at least one Polish city standing. We are constantly astounded at the progress Poland has made since the Communist rule fell in the 1900s. In twenty years they have made leaps in their infrastructure and there is a sense of driving forward here that you don't feel in other countries. After horror stories of the Polish roads, we have found them excellent - only one bad delay the very first day we were here. Took us a while to get over that and we actually crossed places off our list to visit which we would have left on if we had known what we now know. Transport is excellent and their cities which were destroyed have been rebuilt and stand as a tribute to Polish patriotism and determination. The people are without doubt the friendliest and most helpful we have encountered. They help with a smile. Language of course is the eternal problem but in general a lot of Poles have a smattering of English especially the young people. The food is delicious. We have found about 50 restaurants we want to try in Krakow - it is the home of the foodacholic. Great bars and restaurants everywhere.
Yesterday we went up to Wawel Castle - visited the State Rooms. The castle was not remarkable but the Poles see it as the seat of power and it looks over Krakow. We love wandering around the old city and after visiting the castle wandered down there to find a hot chocolate shop which a friend had recommended as serving the best hot chocolate in the world. Well, I reckon it was close. Liquid chocolate - not with lashings of cream but lots of flavour. Think there might have been some chilli in there too. Then to a sword shop she had also recommended. The crafts here are beautiful and we could buy loads of stuff but we have been careful so far not to overbuy and will have to put the reins on here.
Last night we went to a classical concert put on by members of the Krakow Philarmonic Orchestra. It was performed in a 17th century church. I went thinking how am I going to stay awake through this. Well, no problems at all. It was heavenly. The atmosphere was breathtaking and the music was glorious. There was not a huge audience but they got a standing ovation and even gave us an encore. We were going to go to a jazz bar after but as I said to John - don't think I could do that after such a wonderful experience. We both loved it. Jazz bar tonight.
John is off walking the Jewish Ghetto this morning. WE are actually living in the jewish ghetto in a brand new apartment. The area is called Podgarze - we live just around the corner from Oscar Schindler's factory. John is loving the history of Poland and always spends hours exploring obscure places no one else would bother with. He is incorrigible and a great and curious traveller. He can envisage what it was like and his passion for history is endless. We have loved travelling together - we are relaxed and very happy. Of course, we miss home but I said to John yesterday, we now only have four weeks left. Could you keep going? And he smiled and said, No problems.
The weather is clearing. Still overcast in the mornings but blue skies in the pm usually. Hope all is well at home.
Deb
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