The jewel in the crown

is what Krakow is to Poland. This is because it stands in its original condition and was not destroyed during the war. Nice of the Nazis to leave at least one Polish city standing. We are constantly astounded at the progress Poland has made since the Communist rule fell in the 1900s. In twenty years they have made leaps in their infrastructure and there is a sense of driving forward here that you don't feel in other countries. After horror stories of the Polish roads, we have found them excellent - only one bad delay the very first day we were here. Took us a while to get over that and we actually crossed places off our list to visit which we would have left on if we had known what we now know. Transport is excellent and their cities which were destroyed have been rebuilt and stand as a tribute to Polish patriotism and determination. The people are without doubt the friendliest and most helpful we have encountered. They help with a smile. Language of course is the eternal problem but in general a lot of Poles have a smattering of English especially the young people. The food is delicious. We have found about 50 restaurants we want to try in Krakow - it is the home of the foodacholic. Great bars and restaurants everywhere.

Yesterday we went up to Wawel Castle - visited the State Rooms. The castle was not remarkable but the Poles see it as the seat of power and it looks over Krakow. We love wandering around the old city and after visiting the castle wandered down there to find a hot chocolate shop which a friend had recommended as serving the best hot chocolate in the world. Well, I reckon it was close. Liquid chocolate - not with lashings of cream but lots of flavour. Think there might have been some chilli in there too. Then to a sword shop she had also recommended. The crafts here are beautiful and we could buy loads of stuff but we have been careful so far not to overbuy and will have to put the reins on here.

Last night we went to a classical concert put on by members of the Krakow Philarmonic Orchestra. It was performed in a 17th century church. I went thinking how am I going to stay awake through this. Well, no problems at all. It was heavenly. The atmosphere was breathtaking and the music was glorious. There was not a huge audience but they got a standing ovation and even gave us an encore. We were going to go to a jazz bar after but as I said to John - don't think I could do that after such a wonderful experience. We both loved it. Jazz bar tonight.

John is off walking the Jewish Ghetto this morning. WE are actually living in the jewish ghetto in a brand new apartment. The area is called Podgarze - we live just around the corner from Oscar Schindler's factory. John is loving the history of Poland and always spends hours exploring obscure places no one else would bother with. He is incorrigible and a great and curious traveller. He can envisage what it was like and his passion for history is endless. We have loved travelling together - we are relaxed and very happy. Of course, we miss home but I said to John yesterday, we now only have four weeks left. Could you keep going? And he smiled and said, No problems.

The weather is clearing. Still overcast in the mornings but blue skies in the pm usually. Hope all is well at home.

Deb

Hauled up in the mountains - oops, the wet mountains

We are currently in Zakopane which has great promise of being a beautiful place as it was when we drove in but woke this morning to rain and it hasn't let up all day. We were planning on doing a 16 kms walk today into the Tatra Mountains to a beautiful lake but instead headed into town and just had a wander around and came back and watched a movie. We couldn't be watching movies in a nicer place. A 100 year old wooden house - a small hostel actually - where we have one of two double rooms in the attic. It's surrounded by pine forests and the view from our windows is out to the mountains. They are predicting rain here for at least five days so we figure if it is still raining in the morning we will head off to Krakow and cut our losses.

since I have last written we have had a delightful night in Lublin wandering around the old city and having a meal. It was a charming city and we half wished we could have stayed longer. But we have wanted to stay in every place we have been at in Poland. That day we were on the road to explore a few tiny towns John had researched and none of them disappointed. We headed over to Kazimierz Dolny where they were having their Saturday folk dancing, singing and instruments day. It was great. Then off to Sandomierz and finally down to a little village where we had booked a hostel. We were the only people in this hostel which was run by a great Polish lady who took us under her wing and served us up Polish food and vodka all night. We thoroughly enjoyed chatting to her and by the end of the night felt we had a new friend. The following morning we all felt a bit sad about leaving as it was one of those special times. We drove that morning through the town of Krosno. The Bournes will understand that connection and we took a photo there for them. Bozana, the lady from the previous night, had recommended we drive down into Slovakia to the town of Baderjof and we did that. We arrived as Sunday Mass was finishing and the square was a picture. We ended up in Nowy Sacs where once again we scored with our accommodation and had a lovely wooden cottage set high in the hills. they had a barbecue there and we went and bought some steaks and vegies and had a feast.

We are thoroughly enjoying our road trip. It has been wonderful. Thanks to John's research we have seen some amazing places and Poland has been a treat.

Off for some more good Polish food now. Had turkey breast in vodka sauce last night.

Take good care.

As close as I got to swimming in the Baltic

Solidarity memorial at Gdansk



Gdansk main street
Making gingerbread in Torun

Copernicus in Torun - his birthplace

Berlin beer garden with Geoff and Tracey

Geoff and John at Wannsee - the site of the passing down of the decision to exterminate the Jews

Dinner at our apartment
John and I at the Berlin Wall
Having coffee in Berlin
Zagan Poland the site of the Great Escape. This is where the tunnel exited.

John at Bastei which is outside of Dresden

View from Bastei

Frauenkirche at Dresden - rebuilt from rubble

Colditz

John at the Zeppilenfeld at Nurnberg

Yodel -oo-oo

Postcard I sent you Caitie - what it's like now

Rothenberg - the traditional shot

Dolamice - Czech Republic

John in his new house

Back from the wild

This morning we have driven to Lublin from Bialoweiza. Now it's taken me a good two days to even start to pronounce that word but it is a small village out on the Belarus border where we have spent the last two nights. The reason we went there - aside from wanting to get out of the cities - was the primaeval forest - the oldest in Europe and untouched for centuries was there. They strictly protect it on the Polish side of the border - not sure the Belarussians do such a good job. You cannot go into it without a guide so yesterday at 5 am we and a German couple headed into the forest for a long walk. Missed my walking buddies yesterday as knew they would all love it. It was amazing - full of oaks, spruce, elms, lindens, and other trees that we do not see a lot of. These trees are centuries old and the forest is left - no planting no clearing etc. It was a relaxing delightful three hours. We went in the pm to do a walk through the "royal oaks" - twenty oak trees, all of them over 300 years old - named after Polish kings. We also visited an animal refuge because this park has fostered the European bison back from near extinction. So saw some of these big guys at this reserve. Now this might sound like we have lost the plot but it was great to be out in the country, walking and relaxing and to do it in a primaeval forest was pretty special.

We had a couple of days in Warsaw before this. Poor old Warsaw which was totally destroyed during the war as was pretty much all of Poland doesn't really cut it. The Old Town is quite small and pretty unremarkable after Gdansk and Torun. We spent most of our day in the centre exploring the area that was the Warsaw Ghetto. Many moving monuments and memorials have been set up as a reminder of the horror that transpired here. It was extremely interesting. Undoubtedly we have spent a lot of time both in Germany and here exploring the Jewish Holocaust sites. We called into Treblinka on the way out to Bialoweiza. It was the second largest extermination camp and was razed to the ground at the end of the war. They have made a very moving memorial here. It is very remote and hard to find but worth visiting. I am not too good at these sites and it is not long before I am a blubbering mess. John has gone out now to the site of Madjanek Concentration Camp. I am not going and will spend the afternoon catching up on blogging, watching the first English news we have seen for quite a while, maybe if I can find it on the TV watching some Wimbledon or F1.

We have meet some wonderful people. Last night John drank a bottle of Zubra (bison) vodka with a young Polish guy in the next room to us. They drink vodka with apple juice and John enjoyed the company of this switched on young Pole. We have stayed in some really interesting places, mainly done through booking.com. A great variety which having a car has allowed us to access. Poland has a lot to offer and we are heading after Lublin down to the Carpathian and Tatra Mountains. Looking forward to that.

Thinking of you all back home. Take good care.

Just loving this country more as the days go by

Can't believe I haven't updated since Berlin. We had a great time there. On the last night we all said what our highlights were. Tracey thought Sachsenhausen, John the Jewish Museum and Geoff and I thought Wannsee. I also love the East Side Gallery which is a 1.3 kms section of the Berlin Wall which they retained and which they invited international artists to paint. It was fascinating - not so fascinating was the graffiti people had put over artists' paintings. We saw this on our last night after which we "coffeed" our way up to the Berliner Dom, the cathedral, and then down the Unter den Lindun (which Tracey found out meant "under the Lindun trees") to the Brandenburg Gate again to the Victory Column and then very kindly they taxied me to the Ka De We, the largest department store in Europe. Tracey and I had a couple of hours there while Geoff and John went to find a memorial church and have a couple of beers. Berlin was new and modern but it was nice exploring it with Geoff and Tracey and being able to swap travel stories. On Thursday morning, they headed off to London while John and I reunited with the trusty Skoda to head into Poland for Torun. This was a nightmare trip where once over the Polish border we took three and a half hours to go about 80 kms. They were doing up the road and we had about 40 trucks in front of us. Eventually we got to Torun and knew it was worth it. It is a wonderful mediaeval town - seems we love them and we had a delightful day wandering around. It is actually the place where gingerbread originated (don't know if that's a good or bad thing) and we went to an atmospheric place where we joined a group of school children for a hands on experience making gingerbread. From Torun we headed north for Gdansk. On the way we called in at Malbork Castle. It was a wet day and we wondered if it would be worth it. Well, was it ever. We had a fascinating four hours in this magnificent brick castle. John reckons it rates with the best he has seen.

We are now in Gdansk (had two nights here) where we have just had a relaxing day and once again been wowed. It was nearly totally destroyed during the war but they have done such a good job of rebuilding you would never know. It is totally delightful. We did a boat trip up to the place on the Baltic Sea where World War II started by a German ship firing on a Polish garrison and then spent time in the old city and at the beach. We were going to go for a swim in the Baltic Sea but it was just too too cold. This is really a town worth visiting. We are staying in a monastery which is set in the middle of Communist drab housing. The bells woke us at 6 this morning as the church is about 20 metres away from our room. Very interesting.

The Poles are great people. They have such delicious food why wouldn't they be great. It has been a treat being in this country. Off to Warsaw tomorrow for three days. Looking forward to that. Hope all is well at home. Loving this life.

Resting up this afternoon

while John, Geoff and Tracy go out to Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp. Thought I might fudge on that one and catch up on some sleep.

We are in Berlin now after a few very interesting days in Dresden and Zagan. We found Dresden fascinating. As you would know, it was blitzed by the Allies in the war and most of Dresden city was flattened. What a job they have done rebuilding their old buildings and their infrastructure. It is a delightful city with wide streets, green spaces and a mix of old and new that makes for a very interesting walk around this town. One of their major accomplishments has been the rebuilding of the Frauenkirche, a protestant church which they had left as a rubble as a memorial to what has happened. In the late 1900s there was a push to rebuild it and in five years they have put this important structure back together. The altar is a construction of over 1000 pieces of the old church found in the rubble.

From Dresden we drove into Poland for the first time to a place called Zagan. Won't mean anything to many of you but when I say it was the site of The Great Escape - the real one - you will know exactly what I mean. We visited the Museum and the site of Stalag Luft III where the prisoners had tunnelled under the fence into the forest. Unfortunately only 3 escaped and 50 were shot. The memorial to these prisoners is poignant.

From Zagan (and its very horrible roads) we drove up to Berlin where we met up with Geoff and Tracy, John's brother and his partner. We have had a couple of nights of catching up on travel stories and drinking a lot of beer and wine. Yesterday, we visited a lot of the traditional sights of Berlin - the Brandenberg Gate, Reichstag, Hitler's bunker, Checkpoint Charlie, the Wall, the Jewish Museum and Memorial and the Topography of Terror (the SS Museum). It was a good day but a relatively depressing day reading the German's honest report of what happened.

Our spirits were lifted last night when we went on Skype and found Paddy on and although we couldn't connect properly - mainly because we didn't have a mike I think - I could see him and we messaged. That was just great. Not long now till we meet him and Abbey in the Greek Islands. Can't wait for that.

Tonight we are going to the largest department store in Europe called the Ka Wa De. It's about a two minute walk from our beautiful apartment and apparently has a food court to die for. I have just eaten cold baked beans cause I'm so hungry so really looking forward to that.

Cheers everyone.

Just had the best steak and feel like a million dollars

Even though we are in Dresden, we just went to a beautiful riverside beer garden and had an amazing Argentinian steak, fries and great salad. We feel great. Every Aussie needs a meal like that every couple of weeks when travelling. Makes the world feel right.

After a couple of delightful days on the Romantic Road, we have revised our opinion of Germany somewhat. We had a very relaxing meander through Nordlingen, Dinkelsbuhl and Rothenberg en Tauber. We stayed at Rothenberg for a couple of nights and went in early in the morning before the tourist buses hit. Wandered around this beautiful mediaeval town for about five hours looking at the half timbered buildings, sitting in the churches, visiting museums, sitting on the square drinking beer, walking the walls, listening to the guy playing flute in the gardens. It was all very civilised. We went home then for a nanna nap and then went back in in the evening for another beer on the square to find that half the town were in there in costume as a rehearsal for their mediaeval festival on this weekend. What a treat to see everyone from the very young to the very old participating and wandering around the square. We were happy to sit for a couple of hours and watch.

From Rothenberg we revisited Nurenberg to see the Zeppelinfeld where Hitler held a lot of his rallies. This was closed when we were there before as there was a Rock Festival on last weekend. John and I had been to this place in 1982 so were interested to see what they had done to it. Last time they wouldn't even acknowledge it existed. This time it was very much on the itineraries but not much work had been done on it over all these years. We then drove back into the Czech Republic and stayed overnight at a little place called Loket. A delightful village not unlike Cesky Krumlov or Ein sur Sure.

Today we have had a big driving day from Loket to Colditz where the Allied officers were kept as pows and after a look around the Schloss and the Museum we drove to Dresden. We have just got back from a walk around the city and what an incredible place. After being flattened by what it considered uncalled for bombing during the war it has rebuilt its buildings and its infrastructure with lots of open space, wide roads and great use of green spaces. The old buildings that have been rebuilt are fascinating. We will spend more time here tomorrow.

We are both well. Enjoying ourselves immensely.

Prague and driving

Had a surprisingly wonderful time in Milan. What a city. We loved it. The duomo here is unsurpassed both inside and outside and one could spend hours there. When we went there was a big political rally building in the duomo square as Bellesconi's party had been defeated after 20 years in Milan and in Naples and they were partying. It was great to be around the area all afternoon to see the Italians having a good time. Bands were playing, people were dancing and all in all a feeling of relief and excitement. We met our friends from the boat, Sunny and Ron, for dinner in the evening and had a good night with them. The next morning we headed off for a viewing of the Last Supper. One of those times when you can't believe you are looking at the original - painted on the wall of a refectory. You have to book months in advance to get in to look at it but it is well worth it.

Flew to Prague and what a city that is. It is a very "wanderable" city. Something around every corner that makes your eyes pop. The architecture is delightful. those of you who have been there will understand what I mean. We loved our three days there. We wandered through the Old City and the New City, walked down Wencelas Square, watched the Astronomical Clock strike, drank and ate at beer gardens, went up to the Castle and St Vitus, walked along the river and generally relaxed and enjoyed ourselves immensely. We will be back in Prague for a few days at the end of our trip.

We picked up our little car and headed off for Karlstejn Castle. Google it - a fine example of a Czech castle. From there to Plzen where we had a tour of the brewery. Very interesting especially the underground cellar tunnels which is the only bit of the original brewery still operational. Here they give a glass of unfiltered Plzen beer. Very very tasty. From Plzen we headed down to Domazlice via Stribo. Both beautiful villages. We stayed in Domazlice and wondered why until we came into the town square and what magic. We sat and had a beer looking onto one of the most beautiful - not huge - squares of any town I have ever seen. Had a great meal here - two bowls of soup and two big pizzas and a big beer for $16. Great night.

The next morning we headed over to Klatovy and Sviho (village and castle) and had a relaxing time. Big drive then into Germany and to Regensburg where we had a look around and then up to Eichstatt. This was our worst day so far and one that makes you wonder why you travel. In hindsight it doesn't seem too bad but we couldn't find accommodation because it was a long weekend in Germany and everyone was travelling. Also prices jumped extraordinarily from the Czech Republic. We eventually did get a lovely room but instead of staying in the area we headed off the next morning to Nurnberg where we still are. John wanted to come back here - we had been here quickly in 1982 - as this town contains the square where Hitler held all his big rallies. He went out there yesterday while I rested up as I have a bad cold and cough but found it was closed because of a rock festival. We are off to the Romantic Road this morning where we will stay for a couple of days.

We are a bit disappointed in Germany and part of us wishes we were still in the Czech Republic. But we have booked up our accommodation so we have some definite bookings and destinations until we get to Berlin. Think it's all a bit sanitised for us!!!

Hope all is well at home.

Some photos of our travels

Prague skyline

Milan Duomo - the most beautiful we have ever seen

Sunday morning coffee at Positano - not a bad option

Our good friends on the Melody

Limassol Colessei - the castle not me

At the Dome of the Rock Jerusalem

Our local store in Malta is for sale - tempting!!!

Malta bus

Lizzie and I in cocktail paradise at Theoule

Verdon Gorge

Coffee in French village with the Jumelets

Driving through tunnel on Monte Carlo GP circuit

Village in Provence

Pont du Garde

Trabascon Castle in Provence

Lizzie shopping in Cannes

Assisi - monument to St Francis

Geraniums in Assisi - nearly as good as Helens

Assisi

John and his bestie - Trajan

Linguine with big prawns at Teatro de Pompeii

Good reason to go to Mass at Pantheon - no people!!!

Ferraris drive through Rome for beatification of John Paul II - now that's how I want to go out.

Piazza Navona - one of favourite Roman Places

Pasta and John at Trevi Fountain

Our first meal in Roma












Getting our feet nibbled by thousands of fish in KL