Drinking wine in the afternoon ...

Carmel and John on the terrace

What promised to be a rainy day has turned to sunshine and dinner will again be on the flowered terrace with grape vines sheltering us from the sun at 8.30 pm.  Maybe a swim before dinner if the wine doesn't take effect too soon. 

Our room in Le Presbytere

We have definitely landed in paradise at Le Presbytere in Nadaillac de Rouge in the Dordogne area of France.  With four of our friends we are having a wonderful relaxing time.  Met Gerry and Carmel and Phil and Bea in Souillac yesterday and drove our to our beautiful accommodation by about 3 pm.  Cracked out the wine and the pate and the terrine and the olive sausage and the crunchy bread and the camembert and after a swim in the heated pool partied on till midnight.  It was a great day with great friends.  Everyone loves it here and today after a late start we went to a local market at St Cyprien and then over to Beynac to the castle and village.  We now have a glass of wine and are watching the French Open - Stosur about to play. 

Had a very relaxing last day in Languedoc visiting a few villages, basically doing a coffee crawl, and then packing and cleaning and going to Carcassonne at night to see this beautiful town by night.  What a sight.  We both love Carcassonne and the fact that we lived half an hour away let us appreciate it to the full.  Left early to drive up here going via Cahors with its amazing fortified bridge. 



The AA Cult





Carmel and Gerry bought us all a fleece with Aussie Amis France 2012 on so we had this picture taken of all of us looking like cult followers.  Loving it here with very easy company and good wine and food.

Birds and bells in Languedoc

It's been a while but (and I can't believe I have survived this quite admirably) we have no wifi where we are staying and haven't been near a Maccas to make a post.  We have had a wonderful week - thoroughly enjoying each day and wondering why it is all going way to quickly.




Drinks in Paree!!



We left Burgundy on Sunday morning and it was quite an emotional parting.  We had become good friends with our hosts there and they had cooked us a beautiful brekky.  We were very comfortable in Burgunday and especially in our lovely apartment in the country at Reglois.  The mayhem that is Paris was in stark contrast to our country retreat and we caught a train into the centre and had a stroll along the Seine and all the splendour that that offers.  The bridges of Paris never lose their sheer romanticism and we were very happy strolling for a couple of hours before we met our friends, Phil and Bea and Gerry and Carmel on Boulevarde St Michel for a few too many beers and glasses of champagne.  It was a very happy and exciting occasion as we had been planning this for a long time.  We thought of everyone who wasn't there and drank to you all and wished our numbers were greater.  Another time!!!!



Minerve



From there we flew down to Toulouse, losing our magnum of 1998 Burgundy pinot noir we had bought to drink in the Dordogne as we were not allowed to take fluids on a domestic flights.  Not happy, Jan!!!!!  Also half a bottle of rum went in the same bin.  Our drive out to Castlenau D'Aude was very pleasant - we have had sunny days for most of the time after the first few days in Burgundy.  We have a very typical French village house here courtesy of my friend, Danielle and her inlaws.  It is just beautiful and we have had a very enjoyable four days so far.  I get sick of using words like glorious, beautiful, wonderful - but that is just what France is.  We have visited many amazing villages.  Today we went to the village of Minerve.  Look it up and see how absolutely spectacular it is.  We climbed down to the river and strolled along the rocks there.  Then we went to to village of Lastours where four Cathar castles were taken and destroyed.  We went to a lookout over the remains of these castles and wow, it was breathtaking.  Reminded me vaguely of Macchu Pichu - even though I have never been to MP. 

Yesterday we drove to the fishing town of Collieure on the Spanish border.  You can see the blending of cultures here in the architecture, food, language etc.  We had a swim in the Mediterranean as it was over 30 degrees.  Wandering through this colourful town was a delight and we had a great lunch of grilled sardines.  YUM. 



Carcassonne of course is the jewel in the crown of Languedoc and as we were driving down from Toulouse on Monday morning we sighted it in the distance and were very excited.  We spent most of one day there walking the walls and exploring this mediaeval town.  Paddy, Abbey, Lanie, Ben, Shalla - I know you'll know how excited we were to be here.  Dad has gone back in this afternoon to get some more photos and maybe make a purchase or two.  We will also go over tomorrow night to see the walls lit and have a walk around "La cite" at night. 



Our house in Castlenau d'Aude, southern France



We have been lucky to befriend the caretakers of our house and had a delicious dinner with them last night.  They also invited another couple - American - who we got on with very well.  Had a good laugh and lots of stories were told. 



So all in all, we are thoroughly enjoying ourselves, loving the food and the wine.  Tonight we are going to take our bucket down to the local winemaker and get it filled with good wine for about $12.  And I am assured this wine will not give you a headache. 

All is well and as the title tells you we wake every morning to the church (next door) bells and to birds chirping outside of our window.  C'est la vie!!!!!

Deb and John



Last days in Burgundy

Burgundy is such a diverse place and the last two days we have experienced some of this diversity.  Had a delightful day yesterday visiting the village of Chateauneuf, then an amazing chateau (the French do chateaux so well!!) at Le Rocheport.  From there we did a drive through low slung vineyards growing right up to the side of the road.  They cut their vines very low as they believe the roots will always find water and this encourages them to go deep.  They do not irrigate in Burgundy.  From the town of Pommarde to Merkesault, the wineries and vineyards lined the roads and it was just delightful.  We sat under a tree for lunch for our usual bread and salad and creme caramel and bottle of wine and it was good.

That night we went and had dinner with our hosts, Esme and Geoff.  If anyone wants a great place to stay in Burgundy let us know - we can highly recommend this place and Esme and Geoff have gone out of their way to make us feel at home and welcome.  We have become friends rather than clients and we will miss them when we leave. 

Today we drove over to the little village of Noyers which we thought looked pretty ordinary to start with but when we walked through the arches into the town it was magic.  They really do have wonderful villages here and we spent a fascinating hour wandering through the village, talking to a Texan lady who painted illuminations, having a coffee and walking along the river.  From there we went to a mediaeval fair at Semur en Axois which we had visited early in the week.  We met Geoff and Esme here and had a great time.  I think the highlight was the tavern and the music.  Lots of people were in costume and there was a feeling of fun.  We really had a great time.  We love these days and the atmosphere is fabulous.  There are displays of mediaeval crafts and arts and flags and banners and music and dancing.  What a day!!!!

Had a chat to Lynda this morning when she called and it was good to hear news from home.  We are thinking of going to Paris tomorrow afternoon.  After all, why not!  Might go to the Musee d'Orsay - sounds good. 

Cheers to everyone.

The sun is out!!!!

After a few days of cloudy and sometimes foggy or hazy weather, the sun has come out today and we have put away our coats and jumpers and got out our shorts.  Despite the weather we have had a couple of wonderful days exploring different areas of Burgundy.

Yesterday we went north.  Our first point of call was a little village called Semur en Auxois, one of the "Plus belle villages de France".  It is a mediaeval village set atop of hill with four major towers towering above the village.  We did the recommended walk through the village and found ourselves besides raging rivers, on very old bridges, roaming the ramparts and wandering up narrow alleys lined with cobblestones.  Did someone say cobblestones - I HATE COBBLESTONES!!!!!  One of the best things we saw was a poster advertising the fact that they are having a mediaeval fair there this weekend so we are off again to Semur on Saturday. 

From there we headed to the Abbaye de Fontenay.  Abbeys are always in beautiful locations and are a delight for the eye.  And this one was no different.  We didn't go in but enjoyed seeing this restored masterpiece.  In March, at the battlefield of Alesia, a new museum was opened depicting Julius Caesar's battle with the Gauls in 52 BC.  We spent a couple of hours here in this wonderful hands on museum.  Audio guides, demonstrations of battle techniques, film and Roman camps all added to our understanding of this event.  John of course could fill in the detail.  What would I do without him and his amazing historical knowledge. 

Flavigny was our next stop.  This little village is where the film Chocolat was set.  Very pretty and the home of the anis seed and consequently aniseed balls etc.  We had a lovely wander around this little village and then headed home.  It was a very relaxing and greatly enjoyable day.

Today was equally as enjoyable though involved a bit more driving.  We headed off for our first stop of Vezelay where the church of St Madeline is supposed to be the best in the area.  We were a bit underwhelmed but had a good walk and coffee and pastries.  I have convinced myself that because pastries are from France they are not fattening and have developed quite a large affection for la tarte citron.  Our next stop was Guedelon and this was absolutely incredible.  Here they are building a 13th century castle from scratch using tools and techniques from the 13th century only.  It was mindblowing to see this castle rising from an old quarry site and we had an enthralled couple of hours here.  Seahas, this has to be a must see while you are in Burgundy.

Paddy recommended we go to the race circuit at Magny Cours - as he said the Bathurst of France and one of the best racing tracks in Europe.  It is also going to be the site of the French F1 next year so I persuaded John to take me.  We were not sure what we would be able to see there but it turned out we could go and sit in the stands and there were a few cars obviously having a practice.  Really enjoyed this. 

Another good thing about today was that the sun came out and we have some hope it might now stay that way.  Our delightful hosts are so good to us and we are going to have dinner with them tomorrow night.  Having a wonderful time in a most delightful area of a most delightful country.

Deb and John

La belle Burgundy

I am in love with a charming, smooth talking, winemaking Frenchman called Pierre.  We had three hours yesterday tasting wine from all over Burgundy at Le Cave de l'Ange Gardien in Beane.  Did you know that the "New World" just doesn't know how to make good wine but luckily for all of us the wine-makers in Burgundy know all the secrets to making great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  If it is white and from Burgundy they don't even bother to put Chardonnay on the label - it is always 100% Chardonnay.  Same with the Pinot Noir. 

It was a wet day yesterday and we drove from our wonderful accommodation in a hamlet just south of a little town called Saulieu to a picturesque French town called Autun and then up to Beaune, the centre of winemaking in Burgundy.  We walked around the old town and then had our very informative afternoon with Pierre and another two couples. 

Then joy of joys we went to the French supermarket and stocked up on our pates, bread, delicacies etc.  We didn't even have to buy wine because the people whose farm we are staying on have given us two bottles already and we have to drink them.  They have been so good to us, providing us with a meal to start off with, then yesterday when we came home, some banana bread and wine. 

Really, although the weather is not good, it hasn't stopped us having a great first day.  The trip over leaves a lot to be desired.  It is such a long flight.  On our way out from Paris, we stopped at a little town called Auxerre to stretch our legs and have a walk around.  It was a stroke of luck as they were having their annual wine tasting and food gorging festival.  This town is quite close to the town of Chablis so the wineries were well represented and we had a taste of a wide range of wines from the area.  Great afternoon.  That night we slept for 13 hours - felt like bears but it was good.

The countryside in Burgundy is stunning and we are thoroughly enjoying driving around.  Today we are off to our local town and a couple of closer attractions while we wait for the sun to shine!!!!

On May 19, John and I will leave for Europe.  What again, I hear you saying.  Yes again.  This time we are going at a more relaxed pace.  We have both chosen three destinations where we will stay for a week. John chose the Dingle Peninsula in Ireland, the Ardennes in Southern Belgium and Burgundy, France.  I chose the Swiss Alps and Edinburgh and we both chose to spend a week with four friends in the Dordogne area in France.  We will also be staying for five days in Castelnau d'Aude, a village in southern France and be having a few days in London where we will go to Wimbledon and in Shropshire with family.  We have booked a combination of apartments, houses, cottages in these area and the only thing they have in common is they look fantastic on the net.  We put lots of work in before we go.  John has made our customised "Lonely Planets" and we are very excited about leaving in two weeks.  May it be a safe trip and may those we leave at home stay well and healthy.

It's all going to end soon!!!

We had a wonderful week in Paros. It was just magic. Our home by the sea was wonderful - you could see the water from every window in the house. How lucky were we. We would swim and read and sleep and eat and drink and then walk into town to beautiful whitewashed winding alleys and romantic restaurants. Really wonderful.

Paddy and Abbey left on Friday and we must admit we really missed them for the last couple of days we were on Paros. It just didn't seem the same and on Saturday we just lay around and we each nearly read a book. I was reading "Three Cups of Tea", a wonderful book about Greg Mortenson who builds schools in Pakistan and Afghanistan. A really good read. We caught the ferry on Sunday at 6 pm and had a trauma when we got to Athens' port, Piraeus. There were no trains and the taxis were on strike and we waited an hour for a bus to get into town. We finally arrived at our hotel at 3 am and I have been really zonked today. John however keeps powering on = nothing daunts him. He just said, I am in Athens, I can't sit in a room. We have been out most of the day but I have needed a few breaks. Not to worry tomorrow he is taking me to his favourite place in Athens, the Pynx, where you get a spectacular view of the Acropolis. Thanks to Paddy we have a few good tips for restaurants and shopping.

It is interesting to be in Athens again. Last time we were here was with Lanie in 2004. Nothing much has changed though the Greeks seem to be aware that hard times are ahead. It's hot and sunny here. It really is a delightful country and the people are friendly and helpful. We have loved it.

Well, our three months officially comes to an end on Saturday. We can't believe it. We have one day in KL on the way home. We leave here on Wednesday, fly to London, wait for 8 hours, then board our flight to KL on Wednesday night. We get to KL at 7 pm on Thursday night and leave for Brisbane at 9 pm on Friday night. So it will be a big week. We really have had a wonderful time this holiday. It has been very special. Come to think of it, they are all pretty special.

Every time we go away, we seem to get bad news of someone dying. Last time, it was my cousin Leandra. Gerry Dalton has just written to say Fr Michael Morahan, an old school mate and principal of Villanova for many years, died suddenly. So sad and a reminder to us that life is relatively temporary. Somber for my last post.

thanks everyone for following our blog. Hope you have enjoyed reading of our travels. I will leave you with one last photo, the time of which was probably the most special of our holidays. Cheers.

Paros

We are now officially in Paradise. A beautiful white and blue house by the deep blue water which we can see from every window and with our boy and his girl. It doesn't get much better.

Paros is an amazing island and the little town we are staying near Naousa is a perfect example of a Greek village. WE have been swimming in a different little bay each swim and have a fridge full of feta, olives, capers, sundried tomatoes, salad, Mythos and other good stuff.

Paddy is well and now very relaxed though his reaction when his mouse button just stuck wouldn't indicate that. No, he is wonderful company and Abbey and he are great travellers. They get in and do everything and really enjoy themselves. He only has about 7 weeks left in Afghanistan when he gets back and has relished the challenges he has faced there. Think he likes Greece a whole lot better though.

We are off to buy a big fish to cook for dinner. I am typing this at a beach side hotel, sipping a frappe and watching the sunset. Loverly!!!

Cheers
John Deb Paddy and Abbey.
xxxxx

The road trip is over!!!

and we are back in Prague. We can't believe we have actually done it and we feel amazingly privileged to have been able to do such a mammoth trip. We have loved every minute of it and are totally overawed by Poland and the Czech Republic. When we took the car back yesterday, we were within two minutes of the drop off point and got pulled up by the police for going through a pedestrian zone. They really have no sense of humour the Czech Police. He said it would cost us 5000 korunas. We said we had no money and he said well 500 korunas. We said, hey no, we have no money, we have to go to a Bankomat. He said, well, it's free this time then and let us go. We had done 7600 kms when we dropped it back.

We had a wonderful time in Cesky Krumlov. Loved the canoeing. We paddled for about 15 kms, through 6 shoots (little dams) and while others were capsizing around us we got through unscathed. Starting to think we are nearly ready for the Olympics. Lucky cause it was a bit cold in the river. The time in CK was made even more special by our accommodation on the last night (we moved) which was an apartment right on the river and we looked out to the castle and its beautiful painted tower. This was owned by a wonderful Czech lady (a real wag) who had spent quite a bit of time in Australia and had been in CK for about 30 years. She was great and looked after us like old friends. It was fabulous being in the old city. John met up with a South American guy and had a good hit of tennis one afternoon and Alvaro gave us some very helpful hints on CK and Prague as he had spent months in each.

It is our last day in Prague tomorrow as on Saturday we fly out to Santorini and our boy!!! We are of course really keen now to get going and see Paddy and Abbey. I am not sure if there is wifi on Paros so might not be able to update this but you all know me - don't think I could go a week without logging on somewhere.

Love to all.

On the road again

Hi everyone,

We are writing this from Cesky Krumlov a beautiful little town south of Prague where we have settled for four days after five days on the road.

After we left Krakow, very reluctantly, we headed west and our aim was to spend these few days exploring the more obscure areas of Poland and the Czech Republic. Well, it was wonderful. We love both these countries and the more time we spend here the more enthralled we become.

Probably the highlights of the five days on the road were Olomouc (pronounced Olla-moat) a small university town in central Czech Republic. It is like a mini Prague without the tourist. Why the tourists haven't discovered this place is a mystery because it is an enchanting place with loads to see. From Olomouc we headed south and ended up on the Danube River in Durnstein. Now those of you who know us will have heard the story of how once we lobbed into someone's house and sat down and asked for wine all the time thinking it was a restaurant. the guy gave us two glasses each before he told us it was a private home. This was in Durnstein and it is a picturesque village set right on the Danube. We had an apartment here where when we looked out the window all we could see was the Danube flowing by. It was great. The next day we drove about 60 kms along the river and then up over the mountains back to Telc in the Czech Republic. Loved Telc as well. We have seen many little towns with gorgeous squares and very explorable old cities. Telc is high on the list of favourites.

After visiting a couple of Czech castles we finally reached Cesky Krumlov. It is a very pretty place but is overrun with tourists and is one of those places primed for tourism. We have spent the last couple of days exploring the town and having a drive down the river. Tomorrow we are going canoeing. today as we were driving along the river, I swear the whole population of the Czech Republic was in a boat on the river. We have just come home from having a Bohemian feast which was very very tasty. The food here has been sooo good, the beer really cheap ($1.20 for .5 litre), the people very friendly and helpful and the countryside astonishing.

There is thunder claps outside at the moment. We have had a beautiful sunny day today - here's hoping it's the same tomorrow for time on the river!!!

Krakow

We are saying goodbye to Krakow tomorrow after a five day stay. It has been absolutely delightful and although the weather has left a bit to be desired it really has not stopped us doing anything. For example, today is has been quite heavy rain for most of the day. John went walking the ghetto this morning again and we left the apartment about 9.30. We drove out to Plaszow Concentration Camp where the Jews of Krakow were sent and was featured in Schindler's List and had a look at the site and memorial there. From there we went into town and drove around the Kasimierz area. We then went to the square and made phone calls home. It was wonderful to chat to Cait and Lanie and Ben at length and quickly to Eileen, Mum and Dad and Lynda. This has been our first chat with them all and we were pretty excited. From there we went to see the oldest Uni in Poland where they have a remarkable clock that chimes and music plays at 1 pm. We were craving a coffee by then and usually try and find a special place to have a coffee every Sunday. Well, did we find it - in the form of a jazz club. There was an incredible band playing and a singer and we had our coffee over a couple of hours. Magic!!!

From there we wanted to go and pick up some souvenirs and presents and by then it was about 4.30 so we thought we might come home and watch Wimbledon final, had dinner and and now it's nearly 9 and we have to pack up and get ready to leave. So although it's been raining we have filled the day, had a great time and feel relaxed. Last wet day, we went around to Oscar Schindler's factory which is just around the corner from where we are living. They have made it into a museum on the Nazi occupation of Krakow and it was without doubt one of the best museums I have been too. When we found out there was only a small section on Schindler we thought we'd just do a quick walk through but got more and more enthralled as we went on. We also went out to the salt mine at Wieliczka. Now that was interesting. You walk down about 360 steps to the first level tunnels where the miners have carved figures out of the salt. There is a whole cathedral carved out of salt as well as centuries old equipment. You eventually get down to the third level. Thankfully there is a lift to take you back up.

John went out to Auschwitz yesterday. I opted not to go as I get too despaired. Is that a word? John had a good day and took his time looking at both Auschwitz and Birkeneau. He said it has not changed a lot since he was last there in the 70s. I went shopping and had a relaxing day. Much better for me.

So we have had a good look around, lots of wonderful experiences here. We are heading off to the west and will have one more night in Poland in Paczkow and then head back to the Czech Republic. Paddy leaves tomorrow for Dubai for a couple of days and then off to Athens so not long now till we see our boy in the Greek Islands.

All is well. Thanks for writing everyone. It's good to hear news of home.

The jewel in the crown

is what Krakow is to Poland. This is because it stands in its original condition and was not destroyed during the war. Nice of the Nazis to leave at least one Polish city standing. We are constantly astounded at the progress Poland has made since the Communist rule fell in the 1900s. In twenty years they have made leaps in their infrastructure and there is a sense of driving forward here that you don't feel in other countries. After horror stories of the Polish roads, we have found them excellent - only one bad delay the very first day we were here. Took us a while to get over that and we actually crossed places off our list to visit which we would have left on if we had known what we now know. Transport is excellent and their cities which were destroyed have been rebuilt and stand as a tribute to Polish patriotism and determination. The people are without doubt the friendliest and most helpful we have encountered. They help with a smile. Language of course is the eternal problem but in general a lot of Poles have a smattering of English especially the young people. The food is delicious. We have found about 50 restaurants we want to try in Krakow - it is the home of the foodacholic. Great bars and restaurants everywhere.

Yesterday we went up to Wawel Castle - visited the State Rooms. The castle was not remarkable but the Poles see it as the seat of power and it looks over Krakow. We love wandering around the old city and after visiting the castle wandered down there to find a hot chocolate shop which a friend had recommended as serving the best hot chocolate in the world. Well, I reckon it was close. Liquid chocolate - not with lashings of cream but lots of flavour. Think there might have been some chilli in there too. Then to a sword shop she had also recommended. The crafts here are beautiful and we could buy loads of stuff but we have been careful so far not to overbuy and will have to put the reins on here.

Last night we went to a classical concert put on by members of the Krakow Philarmonic Orchestra. It was performed in a 17th century church. I went thinking how am I going to stay awake through this. Well, no problems at all. It was heavenly. The atmosphere was breathtaking and the music was glorious. There was not a huge audience but they got a standing ovation and even gave us an encore. We were going to go to a jazz bar after but as I said to John - don't think I could do that after such a wonderful experience. We both loved it. Jazz bar tonight.

John is off walking the Jewish Ghetto this morning. WE are actually living in the jewish ghetto in a brand new apartment. The area is called Podgarze - we live just around the corner from Oscar Schindler's factory. John is loving the history of Poland and always spends hours exploring obscure places no one else would bother with. He is incorrigible and a great and curious traveller. He can envisage what it was like and his passion for history is endless. We have loved travelling together - we are relaxed and very happy. Of course, we miss home but I said to John yesterday, we now only have four weeks left. Could you keep going? And he smiled and said, No problems.

The weather is clearing. Still overcast in the mornings but blue skies in the pm usually. Hope all is well at home.

Deb

Hauled up in the mountains - oops, the wet mountains

We are currently in Zakopane which has great promise of being a beautiful place as it was when we drove in but woke this morning to rain and it hasn't let up all day. We were planning on doing a 16 kms walk today into the Tatra Mountains to a beautiful lake but instead headed into town and just had a wander around and came back and watched a movie. We couldn't be watching movies in a nicer place. A 100 year old wooden house - a small hostel actually - where we have one of two double rooms in the attic. It's surrounded by pine forests and the view from our windows is out to the mountains. They are predicting rain here for at least five days so we figure if it is still raining in the morning we will head off to Krakow and cut our losses.

since I have last written we have had a delightful night in Lublin wandering around the old city and having a meal. It was a charming city and we half wished we could have stayed longer. But we have wanted to stay in every place we have been at in Poland. That day we were on the road to explore a few tiny towns John had researched and none of them disappointed. We headed over to Kazimierz Dolny where they were having their Saturday folk dancing, singing and instruments day. It was great. Then off to Sandomierz and finally down to a little village where we had booked a hostel. We were the only people in this hostel which was run by a great Polish lady who took us under her wing and served us up Polish food and vodka all night. We thoroughly enjoyed chatting to her and by the end of the night felt we had a new friend. The following morning we all felt a bit sad about leaving as it was one of those special times. We drove that morning through the town of Krosno. The Bournes will understand that connection and we took a photo there for them. Bozana, the lady from the previous night, had recommended we drive down into Slovakia to the town of Baderjof and we did that. We arrived as Sunday Mass was finishing and the square was a picture. We ended up in Nowy Sacs where once again we scored with our accommodation and had a lovely wooden cottage set high in the hills. they had a barbecue there and we went and bought some steaks and vegies and had a feast.

We are thoroughly enjoying our road trip. It has been wonderful. Thanks to John's research we have seen some amazing places and Poland has been a treat.

Off for some more good Polish food now. Had turkey breast in vodka sauce last night.

Take good care.