Birds and bells in Languedoc

It's been a while but (and I can't believe I have survived this quite admirably) we have no wifi where we are staying and haven't been near a Maccas to make a post.  We have had a wonderful week - thoroughly enjoying each day and wondering why it is all going way to quickly.




Drinks in Paree!!



We left Burgundy on Sunday morning and it was quite an emotional parting.  We had become good friends with our hosts there and they had cooked us a beautiful brekky.  We were very comfortable in Burgunday and especially in our lovely apartment in the country at Reglois.  The mayhem that is Paris was in stark contrast to our country retreat and we caught a train into the centre and had a stroll along the Seine and all the splendour that that offers.  The bridges of Paris never lose their sheer romanticism and we were very happy strolling for a couple of hours before we met our friends, Phil and Bea and Gerry and Carmel on Boulevarde St Michel for a few too many beers and glasses of champagne.  It was a very happy and exciting occasion as we had been planning this for a long time.  We thought of everyone who wasn't there and drank to you all and wished our numbers were greater.  Another time!!!!



Minerve



From there we flew down to Toulouse, losing our magnum of 1998 Burgundy pinot noir we had bought to drink in the Dordogne as we were not allowed to take fluids on a domestic flights.  Not happy, Jan!!!!!  Also half a bottle of rum went in the same bin.  Our drive out to Castlenau D'Aude was very pleasant - we have had sunny days for most of the time after the first few days in Burgundy.  We have a very typical French village house here courtesy of my friend, Danielle and her inlaws.  It is just beautiful and we have had a very enjoyable four days so far.  I get sick of using words like glorious, beautiful, wonderful - but that is just what France is.  We have visited many amazing villages.  Today we went to the village of Minerve.  Look it up and see how absolutely spectacular it is.  We climbed down to the river and strolled along the rocks there.  Then we went to to village of Lastours where four Cathar castles were taken and destroyed.  We went to a lookout over the remains of these castles and wow, it was breathtaking.  Reminded me vaguely of Macchu Pichu - even though I have never been to MP. 

Yesterday we drove to the fishing town of Collieure on the Spanish border.  You can see the blending of cultures here in the architecture, food, language etc.  We had a swim in the Mediterranean as it was over 30 degrees.  Wandering through this colourful town was a delight and we had a great lunch of grilled sardines.  YUM. 



Carcassonne of course is the jewel in the crown of Languedoc and as we were driving down from Toulouse on Monday morning we sighted it in the distance and were very excited.  We spent most of one day there walking the walls and exploring this mediaeval town.  Paddy, Abbey, Lanie, Ben, Shalla - I know you'll know how excited we were to be here.  Dad has gone back in this afternoon to get some more photos and maybe make a purchase or two.  We will also go over tomorrow night to see the walls lit and have a walk around "La cite" at night. 



Our house in Castlenau d'Aude, southern France



We have been lucky to befriend the caretakers of our house and had a delicious dinner with them last night.  They also invited another couple - American - who we got on with very well.  Had a good laugh and lots of stories were told. 



So all in all, we are thoroughly enjoying ourselves, loving the food and the wine.  Tonight we are going to take our bucket down to the local winemaker and get it filled with good wine for about $12.  And I am assured this wine will not give you a headache. 

All is well and as the title tells you we wake every morning to the church (next door) bells and to birds chirping outside of our window.  C'est la vie!!!!!

Deb and John



Last days in Burgundy

Burgundy is such a diverse place and the last two days we have experienced some of this diversity.  Had a delightful day yesterday visiting the village of Chateauneuf, then an amazing chateau (the French do chateaux so well!!) at Le Rocheport.  From there we did a drive through low slung vineyards growing right up to the side of the road.  They cut their vines very low as they believe the roots will always find water and this encourages them to go deep.  They do not irrigate in Burgundy.  From the town of Pommarde to Merkesault, the wineries and vineyards lined the roads and it was just delightful.  We sat under a tree for lunch for our usual bread and salad and creme caramel and bottle of wine and it was good.

That night we went and had dinner with our hosts, Esme and Geoff.  If anyone wants a great place to stay in Burgundy let us know - we can highly recommend this place and Esme and Geoff have gone out of their way to make us feel at home and welcome.  We have become friends rather than clients and we will miss them when we leave. 

Today we drove over to the little village of Noyers which we thought looked pretty ordinary to start with but when we walked through the arches into the town it was magic.  They really do have wonderful villages here and we spent a fascinating hour wandering through the village, talking to a Texan lady who painted illuminations, having a coffee and walking along the river.  From there we went to a mediaeval fair at Semur en Axois which we had visited early in the week.  We met Geoff and Esme here and had a great time.  I think the highlight was the tavern and the music.  Lots of people were in costume and there was a feeling of fun.  We really had a great time.  We love these days and the atmosphere is fabulous.  There are displays of mediaeval crafts and arts and flags and banners and music and dancing.  What a day!!!!

Had a chat to Lynda this morning when she called and it was good to hear news from home.  We are thinking of going to Paris tomorrow afternoon.  After all, why not!  Might go to the Musee d'Orsay - sounds good. 

Cheers to everyone.

The sun is out!!!!

After a few days of cloudy and sometimes foggy or hazy weather, the sun has come out today and we have put away our coats and jumpers and got out our shorts.  Despite the weather we have had a couple of wonderful days exploring different areas of Burgundy.

Yesterday we went north.  Our first point of call was a little village called Semur en Auxois, one of the "Plus belle villages de France".  It is a mediaeval village set atop of hill with four major towers towering above the village.  We did the recommended walk through the village and found ourselves besides raging rivers, on very old bridges, roaming the ramparts and wandering up narrow alleys lined with cobblestones.  Did someone say cobblestones - I HATE COBBLESTONES!!!!!  One of the best things we saw was a poster advertising the fact that they are having a mediaeval fair there this weekend so we are off again to Semur on Saturday. 

From there we headed to the Abbaye de Fontenay.  Abbeys are always in beautiful locations and are a delight for the eye.  And this one was no different.  We didn't go in but enjoyed seeing this restored masterpiece.  In March, at the battlefield of Alesia, a new museum was opened depicting Julius Caesar's battle with the Gauls in 52 BC.  We spent a couple of hours here in this wonderful hands on museum.  Audio guides, demonstrations of battle techniques, film and Roman camps all added to our understanding of this event.  John of course could fill in the detail.  What would I do without him and his amazing historical knowledge. 

Flavigny was our next stop.  This little village is where the film Chocolat was set.  Very pretty and the home of the anis seed and consequently aniseed balls etc.  We had a lovely wander around this little village and then headed home.  It was a very relaxing and greatly enjoyable day.

Today was equally as enjoyable though involved a bit more driving.  We headed off for our first stop of Vezelay where the church of St Madeline is supposed to be the best in the area.  We were a bit underwhelmed but had a good walk and coffee and pastries.  I have convinced myself that because pastries are from France they are not fattening and have developed quite a large affection for la tarte citron.  Our next stop was Guedelon and this was absolutely incredible.  Here they are building a 13th century castle from scratch using tools and techniques from the 13th century only.  It was mindblowing to see this castle rising from an old quarry site and we had an enthralled couple of hours here.  Seahas, this has to be a must see while you are in Burgundy.

Paddy recommended we go to the race circuit at Magny Cours - as he said the Bathurst of France and one of the best racing tracks in Europe.  It is also going to be the site of the French F1 next year so I persuaded John to take me.  We were not sure what we would be able to see there but it turned out we could go and sit in the stands and there were a few cars obviously having a practice.  Really enjoyed this. 

Another good thing about today was that the sun came out and we have some hope it might now stay that way.  Our delightful hosts are so good to us and we are going to have dinner with them tomorrow night.  Having a wonderful time in a most delightful area of a most delightful country.

Deb and John

La belle Burgundy

I am in love with a charming, smooth talking, winemaking Frenchman called Pierre.  We had three hours yesterday tasting wine from all over Burgundy at Le Cave de l'Ange Gardien in Beane.  Did you know that the "New World" just doesn't know how to make good wine but luckily for all of us the wine-makers in Burgundy know all the secrets to making great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  If it is white and from Burgundy they don't even bother to put Chardonnay on the label - it is always 100% Chardonnay.  Same with the Pinot Noir. 

It was a wet day yesterday and we drove from our wonderful accommodation in a hamlet just south of a little town called Saulieu to a picturesque French town called Autun and then up to Beaune, the centre of winemaking in Burgundy.  We walked around the old town and then had our very informative afternoon with Pierre and another two couples. 

Then joy of joys we went to the French supermarket and stocked up on our pates, bread, delicacies etc.  We didn't even have to buy wine because the people whose farm we are staying on have given us two bottles already and we have to drink them.  They have been so good to us, providing us with a meal to start off with, then yesterday when we came home, some banana bread and wine. 

Really, although the weather is not good, it hasn't stopped us having a great first day.  The trip over leaves a lot to be desired.  It is such a long flight.  On our way out from Paris, we stopped at a little town called Auxerre to stretch our legs and have a walk around.  It was a stroke of luck as they were having their annual wine tasting and food gorging festival.  This town is quite close to the town of Chablis so the wineries were well represented and we had a taste of a wide range of wines from the area.  Great afternoon.  That night we slept for 13 hours - felt like bears but it was good.

The countryside in Burgundy is stunning and we are thoroughly enjoying driving around.  Today we are off to our local town and a couple of closer attractions while we wait for the sun to shine!!!!

On May 19, John and I will leave for Europe.  What again, I hear you saying.  Yes again.  This time we are going at a more relaxed pace.  We have both chosen three destinations where we will stay for a week. John chose the Dingle Peninsula in Ireland, the Ardennes in Southern Belgium and Burgundy, France.  I chose the Swiss Alps and Edinburgh and we both chose to spend a week with four friends in the Dordogne area in France.  We will also be staying for five days in Castelnau d'Aude, a village in southern France and be having a few days in London where we will go to Wimbledon and in Shropshire with family.  We have booked a combination of apartments, houses, cottages in these area and the only thing they have in common is they look fantastic on the net.  We put lots of work in before we go.  John has made our customised "Lonely Planets" and we are very excited about leaving in two weeks.  May it be a safe trip and may those we leave at home stay well and healthy.